Starting at the Ottoman clocktower built in 1900 to celebrate 25 years of the rulership of Abdul Hamid II, the 34th Sultan of the Ottoman Empire and the last Sultan to exert effective autocratic control over the fracturing state. The first church to visit is the St. Michael’s Greek Orthodox Church.

Continuing to the “House of Simon the Tanner” (שמעון הבורסקאי) at the Armenian Christian Zakarian family and hearing about  the  story of Petrus who went from Jaffa to Caesarea, the location of the Roman headquarters in the 1st century CE, to convert Cornelius, a Roman pagan soldier. This was the first conversion of a non-Jew to Christianity. Two other sites identified with Simon the Tanner are the Franciscan Petrus church and the Russian Petrus church in Abu Kabir.

Moish Maoz will guide us in the Franciscan Saint Petrus church. We will start at the crusader chapel, built on the ruins of a byzantine monastery, by Louis the IX of France who led the 6^th and 7^th Crusades in the 13^th century. In the year 1217 Saint Francis of Assisi established the Franciscan order in Israel, which in 1342 became Custodian Terra Sancta.  In 1799, the Franciscans hosted Napoleon who was visiting his injured soldiers after the lost battle in Acre. At the end of the 19^th century, a modern church was built with the help of the Spanish monarchy. The church is dedicated to Petrus and faces West, the Sea, unlike most churches that face East. This is related to the fact that Petrus went from Jaffa to the West to preach Christianity; Petrus was crucified in Rome and the angel who addressed Petrus in his dream came from the West. We will see the Black Madonna, a gift from Poland.

Saint George’s church serves the vibrant community of circa 5,000 Greek Orthodox. The compound is comprised of a monastery, a church and a large courtyard which serves the scouts. The church is dedicated to Saint George, born in the 3^rd century. He served as an officer in Caesar Diocletianus’ army and saved the city of Lydda (לוד) by killing a dragon who wanted to destroy the city. Saint George is the 4^th sacred saint in Christianity after Jesus, Mary and John. George converted to Christianity which was a forbidden religion at the time of Diocletian. He was tortured to death on the wall of Andromeda in Jaffa and is buried in Lydda. He is depicted on the Iconostasis to the right of the prophet Elijah.

Our next stop is the Catholic Franciscan Saint Anthony church on Yefet Street 51 which offers several religious services on Saturdays and on Sundays. St. Antony church and St. Petrus church are the two Franciscan churches in Jaffa. The church is dedicated to Anthony from Padua, Italy, who was a Portuguese Catholic priest and friar of the Franciscan Order. He is known as the most celebrated of the followers of Saint Francis of Assisi and is the patron saint of Padua and many places in Portugal and in the countries of the former Portuguese Empire.

There is a large educational center of Terra Sancta. We are going to be present at the Messe and will enjoy the liturgics. The ceremony includes the drinking of wine and the eating of the Communion, representing Jesus’ blood and body, offered solely to Catholics.

Hopefully we are going to be lucky and be allowed to enter the St. Anthony Coptic Church in Jaffa, a unique opportunity to visit a church that is usually inaccessible to the public. There are 5 monks, dressed in their unique traditional clothing, with Father Michael as the sole monk. The Coptic Christians arrived in Jaffa following the invasion of Ibrahim Faha (1831-1840) from Egypt and established the church in 1855. There is a strong connection between Egypt and Jaffa (Jebaliya in Jaffa is named after the neighborhood in Gaza and Abu Kabir, established in 1836, is named after the city Abu Kabir in the Egyptian delta; oranges form Jaffa were exported to Egypt). The compound is comprised of a monastery, a guest house, a church and a previously well-kept orange orchard. During Easter 10,000 Copts from Egypt visited Jaffa (in Egypt there are approximately 10 million Copts). The church is dedicated to Antonius the founder of monasticism at the end of the 3^rd century in Egypt. The church is orthodox and belongs to the Monophysite churches who believed that Jesus had only a single “nature” which was either divine or a synthesis of divine and human.

En route to the five schools clustered on Jeffet street, we pass King Faisal’s bridge (Jeffet 42) which was built by the British mandate and enabled traffic above the Gaza Road that connected Jaffa with Gaza. Faisal was the ruler of Iraq appointed by the British.

The educational institutions include a) Secondary Terra Santa; b) Saint Michael school of the Greek Catholics; c) the school of Sisters of St. Joseph of the Apparition which was later turned into the French hospital named after Louis IX and nowadays is a luxurious compound; d) Le Collège des Frères built in 1882 and is part of the French La Sallian educational institutions, the school is operated by the French embassy and the Israeli Ministry of Education. There was rivalry between the Salian Franks and the Italian Salesians; e) Scottish Tabeetha School built in 1863.

The kind hospitality of the Jaffa Assembly will lead us to the Protestant Anglican cemetery which is nowadays well preserved. The land for the cemetery was purchased in March 1842, two months after the arrival of Bishop Michael Solomon Alexander in Jerusalem. In those days, Jaffa was still surrounded by a wall[1]. On the east side of Gaza Road, stretched along the wall’s ditch (Jeffet Street today), was a barren hill on which the cemetery was established, along with other Christian institutions. Two famous people are buried in this cemetery: a) Dr. Anthony Hodgkin, a British physician. He accompanied Moses Montefiore to Palestine in 1866, where he contracted dysentery and died in the same year. He is considered one of the most prominent pathologists of his time and a pioneer in preventive medicine. He is now best known for the first account of Hodgkin’s disease, a form of lymphoma and blood disease.; b) the British General Edward Thomas Mitchell who took part at the Battle of El-Medjdel, a skirmish between Ashdod and Gaza, possibly (judging from the name) near al-Majdal Asqalan, on the 15^th of January 1841.

Our last site before lunch is going to be the Scottish Tabeetha School. In 1863, Jane Walker–Arnott, the eldest daughter of a Glasgow University professor, founded the school to give the girls of Jaffa a measure of dignity and independence in an oppressive society. In 2013, the school celebrated 150 years.

We will drive to Abu Kabir and park in the large parking lot (Ben Zvi Street corner Tel Giborim Street).

Petrus Provoslavian orthodox church in Abu Kabir, is dedicated to Petrus and Thabeeta whom Petrus revived. This is one of the Russian compounds in Israel, situated on the main road between Jaffa and Ramle and from there to Jerusalem – the route of the pilgrims which included St. Petrus church in Jaffa, Joseph of Arimathea (Yosef Haramati) in Ramle who donated his burial cave to the crucified Jesus, and Jerusalem and Bethlehem. Brother Constantine Nurov identified this site as Thabeeta’s burial place, which eventually led to the purchase in 1874 of 32 dunams by Antonin Kapustin, a monastic clergyman of the Church of Russia. In the 70s of the 19^th century, the noted French Orientalist and archaeologist Charles Simon Clermont-Ganneau identified 34 Jewish tombstones with Hebrew encryption. The tombstones were transferred to Europe and in 1975 Dr. Zvi Ilan managed to get 7 of the tombstones back which are nowadays on display in the Museum of Jaffa, near the Saraya building in the Old City of Jaffa.

At the Russian compound in Abu Kabir there is the burial cave of Thabeeta, a cemetery and the church. The church was erected in 1894 and belonged to the few churches of the “White” Russian orthodox order (such as the Church of St Alexander Nevsky in Jerusalem). The Russian KGB operated extensively in this church, one of the Russian spies being the Israeli colonel Israel Bar who was active in the 60s of the 20^th century and was sentenced for 10 years in prison.

The aedicule of Thabeeta has an encryption in several languages, including Greek, Georgian, Latin, English, Hebrew, Arabic and Cyrillic.

The tomb of Thabeeta is a cave in the kurkar (calcareous sandstone) ridge and resides in a beautiful garden with plants, trees and peacocks, the latter being a symbol of eternity in Christian belief.

The church is richly decorated with a beautiful iconostasis and paintings in the aisles depicting Petrus with the angel Michael; Jesus washing the feet of his disciples prior to Last Supper; Jesus giving Petrus the primacy at Tabgha, by the Sea of Galilee; Peter’s triple rejection of Jesus as commemorated at the Church of Saint Peter in Gallicantu on Mt. Zion, Jerusalem. Another painting shows Petrus’ crucifixion in Rome with his head down.

[1] http://www.academia.edu/14694571/The_Anglican_cemetery_in_Jaffa

Drive from Center to the Hanadiv Gardens via the Coastal Road (#2)

On the way to our destination, we are driving through the Sharon Plains. The geographic borders of the Sharon are the Yarkon River in the south, the foothills of the Samarian mountains in the east, Alexandria stream (North of Beit Yanay) in the north and the Mediterranean Sea in the west. The Sharon is named after the dense forest which ones populated this area.
Road #2 is located between the Western and the Central Kurkar ridge (and Road #4 is located between the Central and the Eastern Kurkar ridge). The Kurkar ridges along the coastal plain of Israel are composed of alternating calcareous aeolianite (kurkar) and paleosol (hamra) units. In Israel there are roughly speaking 3 parallel Kurkar ridges. Kurkar is formed by lithification of sand dunes under Mediterranean weather conditions (long dry summer and short winter. The origin of the sand along the coast is from the Nile. The sand is deposited along the seashore during a period of falling sea levels to form a foredune. Upon rising of the sea, the foredune erodes. During a second phase of falling sea level, the 1st foredune is restored and a second foredune is formed in the prograding shoreline. Again, upon the rising of the sea, the newer foredune erodes. In Israel, 3 kurkar ridges result from 3 periods of falling and rising sea level.

Park at Ha’Nadiv garden parking area for a fee

Breakfast near the parking area

Walk through the Nature Reserve following the green path (Vultures Trail), the red path (Manor Trail) and finally the blue path (Spring Trail)

The circular green path (the Vultures Trail[1]) is the longest and most challenging of the three trails in the Nature Park. Recommended for skilled hikers, this path traverses a wealth of natural landscapes interspersed with observation points, a prehistoric cave, and an acclimatization cage for birds of prey.

From the observation point on the green trail, walk towards the trailhead, and then continue to the red path (The Manor Trail[2]). The Israel National Trail marking (orange-blue-white) may also be seen at the beginning of the trail.

Return to the trailhead and then onto the blue path (The Spring Trail[3]).

[1]https://www.ramat-hanadiv.org.il/en/routs/the-vultures-trail/

[2]https://www.ramat-hanadiv.org.il/en/routs/the-manor-trail/

[3] https://www.ramat-hanadiv.org.il/en/routs/the-spring-trail/

Walk through the Hanandiv Gardens to the Ma’ta’im restaurant

Dairy lunch at Ma’ta’im restaurant (Kosher)

Drive from Hanadiv Gardens to Agamon Hefer

Agamon Hefer is situated near Alexander stream, not far from Ein Hahoresh. The easiest way to get there is by entering “Agamon Hefer” into Waze which will take you to Hefer junction where you turn east following a dirt road along Alexander stream for 3.5 km. Park near the Love Tree Bridge (גשר עץ האהבה).

Tour the Agamon Hefer (circular tour)

Cross the bridge (גשר עץ האהבה), turn right, and walk along the Alexander Stream till you reach the entrance to Agamon Hefer. Alexander stream is one of the largest in the Sharon streams. It is about 45 km long and drains a large area of ​​about 550 square km. The origin of the stream is in the Samarian mountains, between Mount Gerizim and Mount Eibel. It enters the Sharon plains between Kochav Yair and Taibeh and flows into the Mediterranean Sea between Mikhmoret and Beit Yanai. Walk towards the viewpoint and continue walking around the pools enjoying nature. Agmon Hefer ponds used to be the fishponds of Kibbutz Ein HaHoresh which were turned into a green park. Today you will find attractive walking paths, bridges, and a variety of observation huts, which are designed in such a way that one can see the birds. Among other things, you will see common falcon, magellan, spotted butterfly, white-breasted kingfisher, common squid, finch, snail and more – with pictures of the species that can be seen in each hut.

Drive back to Center

Drive from the Center (Tel Aviv, Sharon Area) to Izbet Zarta עזבת צרטא in Rosh HaAyin

Visit Izbet Zarta (Eben-Ezer)

There is not a huge amount to see at the site, but here a piece of pottery containing an ancient Hebrew writing exercise was found: some of the earliest Hebrew script ever to be discovered. The line written at the bottom proved to be the most interesting, as it consists of the letters of the ancient Hebrew alphabet. Researchers believe that the entire “document” is a writing exercise composed by a pupil who practiced his letters by writing out the alphabet of his time.It is now in the Israel Museum in Jerusalem.

Izbet Zarta is tentatively identified as being the site of biblical Even Ha’ezer, where the fateful battle between the Israelites and the Philistines as described in the book of Samuel took place. On defeating the Israelites, the Philistines captured the sacred Ark of the Covenant, causing the Israelites great consternation. The location of the settlement near Tel Afek would seem to fit with the biblical description.

Drive to Rosh HaAyin Forest

Hike/Walk in Rosh HaAyin Forest, including circular walk of Khirbet Deir
The Rosh HaAyin Community Forest extends over an area of around 1,050 dunam and provides a green belt for the northern fringes of the new neighborhood of the town.The Raba River, one of the tributaries of the River Yarkon, runs through the length of the forest.
We can set off on foot to see the forest flowers and the Wildflower Trail. We walk round the gate and continue along the main forest trail, which leads us to the beginning of a footpath that continues for a kilometer. There is a signpost at the start of the path, and the route is marked in red all the way along.
This path, which provides pedestrian access to the Neveh Afeq neighborhood, is circular: it climbs up the hill, before taking us back down to our starting point. It is beautiful at all seasons of the year, but especially so when the flowers are in bloom.

At the top of the hill, there are the remains of an ancient settlement dating back to the Byzantine period, now known by the Arabic name of Khirbet ad-Dawir. The remnants of several buildings can still be seen. To the east of the site, a square cistern has been hewn into the rock and plastered, and visitors should take care not to stumble over any of the other holes or obstacles at the site.

The KKL-JNF observation point offers a view of the entire region: to the east we can see the hills of Samaria, which are easily identifiable as they are almost totally bare, with only a few trees remaining to remind us that they were once the site of natural woodland. To the north we can see Kafr Qasem and the Trans-Samaria Highway, with the city just visible to the south. From here, we descend the marked path until we reach the dirt road we crossed earlier.

Picnic in the forest

Drive back home

Enjoy a circular 6-km hike in the green Kedoshim forest (Martyrs’ Forest), with a climb on mountain Carmila and a long descent through the rocky Kisalon wild riverbed .

We started our hike in the Kedoshim Forest at the Anne Frank Memorial, right off of highway 38 and parked near the Bnei Brit memorial cave. We paid our respects at the Simon Wiesenthal Memorial at the foot of the “Simon Wiesenthal Path”.

We looked for the sign of the blue path and began to hike up the Carmila Mountain. The ascent was not very difficult at first. The trail (which is also part of the Israel Trail) is completely tree lined, and although not flat, the climb is not steep.

As the path sneaked back and forth, the hill became noticeably steeper. The views at each turn were magnificent. Winter wildflowers poked out of every crevice. We stood on the last part of the path that was truly in the forest, surrounded by trees. A few more steps, and we would be up the top on a biking and walking path that encircles the peak of the mountain.

Here, we turned left onto the black marked path and followed it halfway around. This trail was flat and wide, easy to walk on. Looking down there are fantastic views of the area’s surroundings – rolling green mountains up to the cities in the distance.

We turned left onto the green trail and walked on a variety of rocks, flat, with a diagonal slant or just broken up. We descended the Carmila riverbed into the valley below. It felt like walking through a river, but there was no river in sight. The strange rock formations that we walked on were clearly shaped by water. Moss and algae grew everywhere. And of course, the flowers.

Some of the rocks were methodically arranged by nature into the shape of an amphitheater. Others seemed perfectly poised in the valley for a hideaway picnic. But during the entire walk, we remained fascinated as we turned each corner, ready to see what surprises nature held in store

After we walked by a decaying tree trunk filled with clover and moss, we came to the end of this part of the trail. Tall trees climbed up in front of us, and we passed through them back onto the main road – the red trail

At the very beginning of the hike, we had driven down this road toward the trailhead. I was happy to get a chance to walk along this path. When we drove by car, I felt like we were zipping past all the beauty. I was right to want to slow down – it was less rough than the other trail, but no less splendid.

We ended our walk at the Anne Frank memorial designed by Piet Cohen

A kilometer or so on this road and we were back at our car.

Park around Yigael Yadin street #8 (Sidni Ali Mosque parking area) and walk north on the limestone cliff.
Descend towards the Sidni Ali beach, pass the “Artistic House” of Nissim Kachalon (Nissim’s Cave-House) on the Apollonia Beach. Nissim, who is also known as the “Herzliya Hermit”, built this place with his own two hands.

Continue walking north, passing on the foot of the Tel Arsuf/Apollonia archaeological site which can be seen above. The beach is covered with boulders next to the Tel Arsuf cliff and requires careful movement between the stones. The stones are intended to protect the limestone cliff from the sea waves that cause its collapse. The walk is not difficult because the stones are nicely arranged and next to them is a narrow path. Look at the remainders of some of the Arsuf fortifications.
Walk till you reach a little creek that will enable you to ascend to the old and abandoned Ta’as factory Nof Yam/Tel Arsuf. Ta’as Nof Yam was a military factory, established in the 1950s, in which weapons and explosives were manufactured. In the year 1991, a huge explosion occurred that burnt the factory down and polluted the environment with toxins and hazardous materials and contaminated the groundwater. The place is closed to wanderers. Be careful.

Walk south towards the Sidni Ali Mosque and visit the mosque. According to Muslim tradition, one of the commanders of the Muslim army, Ali Ben-Aleim, the seventh grandson of the Khalif Omar Ibn El Khatib, who died in 1081, is buried here. The place served as a pilgrimage site, especially during the Crusader period. According to Mujir al-Din, the building and well were constructed in the year 1481 during the times of the Mamelukes . It attracted Arab and Bedouin residents of the area who also came from Samaria to judge between a man and his friend in a test that took place at the site by a miraculous black stone, that stone was positioned in the wall near the tomb und used to check whether a person was telling the truth. The person had to stand, with his eyes covered a few steps in front of the tomb. and move towards the tomb with an outstretched arm. In case his hand touched the stone, it was a sign that he was talking the truth, and if not it shows that he was lying and he was forced to pray. Nowadays, there is no stone. A large part of the Mosque was built during the Ottoman period, a time during which there was a small harbor the Apollonia anchorage, from which watermelons were shipped from Palestine to Egypt.

Directions toBen Shemen Forest

• From Highway 1 turn east at Ben Shemen Interchange to Maccabim and Re’ut (443)
• From the north, from Highway 6, exit at Ben Shemen Interchange (444) towards Tel Hadid
• From Jerusalem, drive on Highway 443 towards Ben Shemen

Drive and/or walk in the Ben Shemen Forest